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Gap Grass
How to create a great lawn with turf at minimum expense
I believe that the best time of year to do this (like seed) is in early Spring, giving your turf a full season to get established – some so-called experts would have you believe that Autumn or even Winter are the best times to lay your turf, maybe they're right but I have always gone for Spring or early Summer and never had nothing but great results; apart from that, do you really have any desire to work outside in the cold or the rain? No! Me neither!
Preparation of the plot is the same as for seed, but in case you've not yet read my previous article, here goes:
Make sure the area is dug over or rotavated thoroughly. Then rake it out and level it the best you can, even if you have to move soil from one end of the plot to the other. Remove large stones or pebbles – they will only come through the grass. Get rid of as many weeds as possible, all if you can (make sure you wear protective gloves if handling nettles, thistles or other thorny stuff); we want a lawn of only grass if possible, rather than grass with the odd nettle or thistle included (these can be very painful to a small child, they're painful enough to adults). You can never over-prepare a plot for a lawn, the finer the granules of soil, and the more level the ground the better. Some recommend going over the area with a roller, or patting the soil down by walking and jumping on a wooden board laid over the area, but I have never done this and never had any problems as a result, so I believe it's not necessary at all.
When laying your turf, always start at the furthest point from where your turf is stored and work back towards your stored turfs, laying the area nearest your storage area last (this way you will not need to walk on newly laid turf to get to where you are working).
Once your ground is ready, you need to rake carefully an area the size of one piece of turf, making sure there are no hollows or humps. Then roll out your piece of turf over the area, butting up to the edge and hutching it into place. Then rake an area the size of your next piece, don't forget to get rid of any humps or hollows (don't rake a large area at a time, as you will need to walk on your prepared soil to lay your turf, leaving footprints, so you will only end up raking it again; why do it twice when once is enough). Roll out your next piece and then butt it up to the last one ensuring there is no gap. Repeat the process with your next piece.
After you have laid about three pieces then pat them down with the back of a spade to firm them in – a process I call ‘whacking' (you don't have to do it after three pieces, you can do it whenever you like, even after one if you wish, or after you've completed a larger area; but after three pieces works best for me).
Next just do it again, and again, and again until the job's done. If you have any gaps or holes, or you need to cut some pieces to get the right width or length, then I suggest you cut the right size pieces by using a sharp spade or an old knife, but be very careful; we don't want any nasty accidents. Fill in the gaps etc. and whack them down.
CONGRATULATIONS!
You've just laid a new lawn! Looks good doesn't it?
But it isn't going to stay that way without a little aftercare.
So the very same evening you must water it thoroughly, give it plenty; they say you can never give new turf too much water (not strictly true of course, but it will need plenty to help it along, but if it gets waterlogged then you've gone over the top a little, that'll teach you to get it right the next time but don't worry, it won't harm the turf and all the excess water will go after a while). If it doesn't rain the following day then water it again the next evening, and the next and so on for about a week (if you get a good bit of rain there'll be no need to water on the rainy day). By now you should notice how well the turf has knitted together, but try and avoid walking on it much for the first couple of weeks, though walking over it now and then will do it no harm but going on it to play volleyball for example is sure to do it lots of damage. Water every two or three days after the first week, depending on the weather of course; if it gets dry, water it that evening – if it stays damp then don't bother. After about two to three weeks it should be established enough to put it to normal use and will probably be ready for its first trim with the lawnmower.
On this note please, if you haven't got a lawnmower or have no intention of getting a lawnmower, then don't bother with a lawn for you'll just be wasting your time.
Go for a high trim for the first two to three weeks, taking off only the topmost tips of the grass, then after this time you can start trimming to the length you require.
There you go; not quite instant lawn; but as quick as you're going to get it.
In my next article I'll be telling you how to look after your lawn correctly.
About the Author
Pete Etheridge
Qualified horticulturist and budget hobby gardener.
Offering help & advice on garden matters.
How do I lay a patio extension?
I currently have a concrete (cement) patio that is 15'-20'. I have an
8'-20' area of grass behind it. I want to take out the grass and lay
18"-24" concrete slabs that are about 1 1/2'' thick. I would like to leave a couple inch gap between the slabs and put in pea gravel. Is this complex? Please give advice.
The best way to do this is to take out the grass and some of the dirt, leaving the area about 4" lower than you want the finish product. Rent a vibratory compactor and compact the dirt. Then fill this area with a fine compactable rock to about minus 2 1/2" from finish elevation. Compact the rock. This may require a little bit of water sprayed on it to compact well. Keep filling until you are minus 2 1/2" from finish. Then install a fine compactable sand to within 1" from finish. Compact the sand. Screed off (smooth) the fine sand to exactly minus 1". Using string lines, install the cement blocks. Be careful not to disturb the finish sand elevation. From one end, begin filling the area with a mixture of pea gravel and the silica sand. A broom works well for this. This will lock in the blocks where you want them. The cement blocks are now 1/2" high and will settle down to the desired elevation. The sand will dissapear and you will only see the pea gravel. All these products can be purchased at Home Depot or Lowes. Good luck!
New Purchase : Gap Grass = Cut Green Grass !!!