Arpels Cologne

Arpels Cologne

Bags, Bags, Bags

The Bag

Women did not always carry bags; for most of history they didn’t need to. They would carry all their indispensables in dress pockets. After the French and American revolutions, the antiroyalist fervor found a reflection in a simpler fashion. The full skirts were replaced by slim muslin gowns and women began to carry small drawstring bags. As women became more independent and their obligations increased, so did their bags’ size. Their new social roles led to diversified styles for different circumstances – a canvas tote for summer, a leather handbag for work, a satin envelope for evening. These are a few of these styles:

Backpack

Designed for heavy use, the backpack has two straps so the weight can be distributed to both shoulders. The modern version of the rugged soldiers’ mess packs, the backpack comes in different styles and is made of diverse materials:  nylon and canvas backpacks are meant for greater load, while leather ones are more urban and elegant. Your height should determine your choice of backpack. If you are over 5’6?, look for packs that are at least I0 inches in length. If you are shorter than 5?4”, however, your pack should not be more than 15 inches in length or it will cover your back and send you tolling the bells of Notre Dame.

Duffel bag

The original soldier’s duffel bag was a cylindrical canvas bag with a drawstring top that folded over and locked into a clamp. It was sturdy, light, and roomy.

The duffel is an oversized sport sac used as gym bag. It’s too big to serve as a purse, but is a great piece of casual luggage.

Envelope bag

Until the 1920s, handbags were tiny drawstring sacks that could carry little more than a lace hankie or a tiny vial of cologne. Women’s new social roles and increased responsibilities imposed the need for a new type of bag. The flat hard envelope-shaped bag tucked smartly under the arm would hold the modern basics in the 1930s—a compact, a cigarette case, and a lighter.

Rather small by current standards, the envelope bag is an elegant accent to an evening outfit. Larger envelopes work best with daytime clothes, while smaller ones are perfect for dressier clothes.

Flight bag

In the early days of air travel a flight was a special occasion. To commemorate the event, passengers dressed up and airlines would give away canvas bags with side pockets, especially designed for the long flight.

Complimentary flight bags have disappeared, but the style can still be found in luggage departments. This is a heavy-use bag so look for solid construction and sturdy closures, and check out the zippers and seams before buying.

Kelly bag

Introduced by Hermes in the late 1930s, the Kelly bag was named after the actress Grace Kelly who was often photographed carrying one. The ultimate status bag, the Kelly is an adaptation of a much larger piece of luggage made by Hermes for the European royals.  At first Hermes provided riding equipment to the most famous stables of France, czarist Russia, and England, but with the end horse-drawn transportation in the late 1920s, Hermes branched out to handbags and luggage that incorporated equestrian motifs.

Authentic Kelly bags are an expensive limited edition and there is a list of customers waiting to pay thousands of dollars for the privilege of owning one.

Minaudière

The exquisite hard-sided evening bag was created in 1930 by Van Cleef and Arpels when Charles Arpels noticed that one of his clients was using a metal Lucky Strike cigarette box as a purse. He adapted the look and named it after the wife of his partner, Estelle Van Cleef, who was minaudière (charming). At first minaudières were made of precious metals and jewels, but the dainty bag did not remain exclusive for long:  it was selling all over America within a decade.

Satchel bag

The satchel may look like a doctor’s bag, but it is actually a smaller version of the popular 19th-century Gladstone luggage bag, named after the four-term British Prime Minister, William Evert Gladstone. Perfect for travel, the flat-bottomed bag could hold everything one needed to explore the world.

The satchel’s tailored, conservative style works beautifully with pants, suits, sweaters, and jackets. The rounded sides tend to add too much bulk to dressier suits and silky dresses.

You will find satchels in solid leathers, colorful quilted prints, and sporty canvas. They are held either by small handles or longer straps that hang from the shoulders.

Shoulder bag

A shoulder bag is any medium-sized bag with a long strap. It was designed for women in the military in the early days of World War II. When buying a new shoulder bag, look for sizes that complement your own. If you are shorter than 5’3”, the bag should not be 1 ½  times larger than your head. Taller women can handle bags that are proportionally larger. Straps that are too long can be shortened by a shoemaker. Short straps can be replaced by a chain.

Tote bag

The tote bag is simple big sack with two handle-sized straps, perfect for carrying all that, which does not fit into a handbag.  Popularized in the 1960s, today tote bags come in all different styles and materials.

Casual canvas, straw, and cotton totes are nice beach bags and airplane carry-ons. Suede, vinyl, and coated linen totes are excellent for work.

If you are petite, always check the hanging length of a tote. You don’t want to drag it on the ground.

About the Author

The author is the founder and owner of Adriana Allen LLC - a European fashion brand offering handmade and one-of-a-kind handbags and fashion accessories. You can learn more about world fashion, fashion's history, and how to buy fashion accessories at our official blog

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